Author: Tosh Lubek Published: 31st March 2023
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Disassembly of the Blue Yeti is not too complex if you need to perform minor maintenance or repairs. This might include fixing the Blue Yeti’s USB port, other work on the Blue Yeti circuit board, or replacement of the Blue Yeti’s grille mesh.
Although this article will help you access the microphone’s circuit boards to carry out any necessary repairs, the main thrust of this article is to help you remove the metal mesh grille so it can be thoroughly cleaned or even replaced.
Unfortunately, removal of the Blue Yeti’s grille isn’t a case of simply twisting it and then unscrewing it off the microphone body. To remove the grille, you must completely disassemble the Blue Yeti. Be careful not to damage any parts, either the plastic knobs, the body paintwork, or the internal circuit boards.
How to disassemble the Blue Yeti Microphone
There are 7 main stages in the process of disassembling a Blue Yeti Microphone to perform any maintenance or repair work.
- Remove the microphone from the desktop stand.
- Unscrew the body shell from the circuit board frame.
- Remove the plastic control knobs and buttons.
- Slide off the body shell.
- Unscrew the circuit board frame from the grille and mic capsule plastic dome.
- Separate the grille, plastic mic capsule dome, and circuit board frame.
- If necessary, remove the two opposing circuit boards from the support frame.
Here’s how to perform those disassembly stages to the point where all the major parts have been taken apart.
1. Remove the Blue Yeti microphone from the desktop stand by unscrewing the two tightening knobs on either side of the stand support arms. While undoing the knobs support the mic body in your other hand to prevent it from suddenly dropping down.
2. There are three crosshead screws on the base of the Yeti that hold the metal body shell to the circuit board support frame. The first is in the middle of the threaded mic stand hole and hidden beneath a circular rubber cover. Ease up and remove the rubber cover, then remove the screw with a screwdriver.
3. The other two screws are on the raised central part of the Yeti’s base and opposite the USB and headphone sockets. Depending on your Blue Yeti, the screws may be hidden beneath a plastic label. If they are hidden, heat the label with a hairdryer to soften the adhesive. Partly lift the label to reveal the screws, then use a screwdriver to remove them. Once all three screws have been removed you should be able to feel that the microphone’s metal body shell and grille appear to have become loose but will not yet come apart. This is because the control knobs and mute button protrude through the body shell and prevent it from sliding off.
4. The plastic knobs and mute button are held in place by friction alone, so you can pull them off. Unfortunately, they are held on tightly so can be difficult to remove. First, try gripping the control knobs between a finger and thumb and try pulling. If this does not work, you will need a tool like a pair of pliers or slip-joint pliers. Use a cloth or strips of rubber around the knobs to prevent damaging the soft plastic. Also, do not use excessive force in gripping the parts.
5. With the screws and plastic knobs removed, the metal body shell can be slid off. Be careful not to damage any components in the process.
6. You will see that there are two rectangular circuit boards attached to a metal frame. The frame is attached to the circular base of the grille by four screws. A flanged plastic dome that supports the mic capsules sits between the metal frame and grille base.
7. Unscrew the four screws and tease the frame and grey mic capsule dome from the grille. You will now have separated four main parts: the grille, the plastic dome with the mic capsules, the metal PCB frame with the two PCBs attached, and the Blue Yeti metal body shell. In addition, you should have some screws and a collection of plastic control parts.
In practice, this is as far as you need to go to have access to almost any part of the Blue Yeti for cleaning or repair. However, if your intention is to repair a component on one of the PCBs, you could stop after stage 5 and turn your attention to dealing with the PCBs.
For example, if you need to fix the Blue Yeti USB port, because the microphone is not receiving power, do this instead of stages 6 and 7.
Identify which PCB has the USB port on it. This board is attached to the PCB support frame by four screws. Unscrew and remove these screws.
Even with the screws removed, you will find that the PCB stays in place. This is because it is joined to the opposite PCB by a 6-pin connector. Gentle pull the board away, making sure you do not bend the pins.
With the board separated you can now work freely on the repair of the USB port.
This video from the Kiki Hobby Repair YouTube channel shows the disassembly of the Blue Yeti, the repair of the USB port, and the reassembly.
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